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The GSW silicone slap mat for 3D printing is designed to be the perfect hobby accessory for any 3D Resin printer or painter. Made of flexible silicone, it can be rolled up to fit easily in a hobby toolbox. It has a 3,5mm high contour all around its perimeter to avoid resin spills, cleaning alcohols, and even paints. This product has been manufactured of soft-touch silicone that will protect your table from paint spillages, which makes it perfect for your hobby cave or any other place where you do not want to make a mess. The antislip backing provides a firm grip on the table preventing it from sliding.
Easy to clean with water or alcohol, or even in the dishwasher. This set contains 1 Slap Mat. Color: Green Size: 410x310mm WARNING: Do not cut with sharp tools or cutters on this as this could irreversibly cut it. This is not a cutting mat. How do you clean resin after 3D printing? To be able to clean your prints after printing is an important step in the post-processing workflow to ensure the best possible quality of the final product.
Here's a general guide on how to clean them after 3D printing:
Safety First: Ensure you are wearing the proper safety equipment before handling them. This includes nitrile gloves to protect your skin, safety glasses to shield your eyes, and working in a well-ventilated area.
Remove the Print: Carefully remove the printed object from the build platform. You can use a plastic spatula to help separate it without damaging anything.
Drain Excess: Hold the printed bit over the vat and allow the excess to drain back into the vat. You can use a soft brush or spatula to help remove any excess.
Rinse the Print: Once you've removed as much of the excess as you can, the next step is to clean the print in a bath of isopropyl alcohol or a similar solvent. This helps to dissolve any remaining uncured resin. In this step, it really helps to have a silicone cleaning mat to protect your desk and contain liquids.
Drying: After the cleaning, it needs to be dried completely. Use compressed air, paper, or a soft cloth to remove any remaining alcohol. You can also let it air dry, but this may take longer.
Post-Curing: After the wargame miniatures or Warhammer bits are completely dry, it needs to be post-cured. This is done by exposing it to UV light, which fully hardens it. This can be done using a UV curing chamber, or by leaving it in natural sunlight.
Final Cleanup: After it has been post-cured, you can remove the support structures if there are any, and sand or polish as needed. It is highly recommended to remove the support structures in the alcohol rinse phase since at this time they are usually weaker due to the effect of the alcohol and are much easier to remove. This is a general guide and steps can vary depending on the type of resin and printer you are using.
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Specifikationer
Please not that all miniatures, terrain etc will be delivered unpainted unless otherwise specified. (does not apply to printed components for boardgames)